Monday morning my brother and i went up to the Heart Wall again, i remember that the last time i came here was about 4 or 5 months ago. I like when we hike up there, it’s so steep and quite remote from the parkin' lot. it took us about 15-20 minutes to get there with all gear but I was still psyched for my project" Jai Khra Rue Proa" Are you brave?
my HEART will go on
Heart Wall is my favorite place so far, the rocks are so new a bunch of different stuff, overhanging, tufa, stalactite, so many nice sequences, and this place has been developed so much in the past 3 years. I quickly warmed up on '' Great to be alive 5.11a" and "Sa Jai or Satisfy 5.11b" and I saw one route that caught my eye called "Jai Gra Rue Proa 5.12a" I've been thinking about climbing this route for about a year an half. Every time i was there i felt like i am not ready for this sh*t but that was an excuse when i wasn't training, today i came back again with full confidence and ready to DESTROY it. I messed up on my first try to on sight it, when i grabbed on the crux I felt my hands get numb and… i fell. I'm kind of not as good at on-sighting (but it’s a goal) that was the problem i need to practice, i came back down to figure out the sequence and get an idea from training and get STOKED for it. The first crux was the hardest for me on this route after the tiny pocket finger holds, were very sharp the next one was the under cringe hold with trees finger and higher foots along with big reaches i can imagine this is like a bouldery problem. I felt super stoked to destroy on my second attempt, when I got on the crux the things that pop up in my head again and my hands felt so wicked( I don't want to fall the things i am thinking in my head on that time). Eventually i destroyed it on my second effort, i felt little stronger since i ever been climbing for 2 years, and i am so thankful that i haven't got sick for a while, my gang (CMRCA) for the encouragement and support, my brother for such good partner...I'm on BroadwayThere are so many different type of climbing, sport climbing , bouldering, traditional climbing, etc, but it’s easy to get new ideas for climbing and you are not going to get bored, you can never reach to the top with rock climbing, I am always learning new things, all the time. Before the instructor from the USA come next month for SPI course (Single pitch instructor) , we all have to go to the crag and find some route to practice how to climb TRAD! It’s so different than sport climbing we've got to used spacial gears like cams and nuts yanking into the crags and see they can hold it, that was scary part for me when i have to fall, so i was super STOKED for this sh*t...Ryeah
Loi Krathong @ 2010 are coming so soon and i went to get some photos shot of the lantern, it is so beautiful to see this amazing festival in Thailand even if i don't like some firework that are " so LOUD". Enjoy your self during Loi Krathong festival, safe and have fun and i'll "BE THERE"
Cheers!
RSt✩r
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