"Chiang Dao Chay Dan, Tam Suoi Doi Sung, Pharsatup Muangngai, Kamneard Sai Nam Ping." This is a slogan here. It means Chiang Dao is beautiful with mountains and caves, near to burmese border and is also the place where the Ping River takes it's origin. In my opinion this is one of the most beautiful place of Thailand. The landscape is amazing with rice fields, little hills and dramatics karts cliffs surrounded by fog and clouds. Not to forget this place has a rich history as you can realize by visiting the King Naresuan pagoda. This is AWESOME!
Doi Luang Chiang Dao
I ride my motorbike with my lovely to Chiang Dao for our holidays. Its located about 80 km away to the north from Chiang Mai. This place has changed a lot in the last 5 years, more tourist and more convenient stores like 7-11 also . But the place keeps it's atmosphere and is still as quiet and beautiful.
DAY 1
Pha Deang wall
My first flashed of the day was a "6b+", the beginning is the same as "6c" so it's quite hard on the first section with small hands holds and very high feet, then the upper section it full with good hand holds. Then we still want to crush another difficult route here, so we tried the "7a/7a+ Red Chilly" located on the far left of the wall. This route is probably one of the most difficult route here. This is a classic "7a" one of the most interesting in terms of hand holds and movement that i have ever climbed. Add had some hard time working on this one and got stuck and fell on the second crux . The second crux present two hard fingers pockets and feet very high before you find the underclings and finally jump and reach a very good hands holds. After having a good rest, he has very good condition and set his goal for red point attempt, so he finally got it his third attempted. Personally I sent this route on my onsighted attempt last year but i wanted to repeat it again. I did it in my first attempted so thanks Add for a new beta that made it easier this time!
DAY 2
Second day of our crushing here. I felt a bit hurt on my back, but i am psyched to jump to the next hard one. We went to check another wall near Pha Deang. I would call this one" jungle wall", because it' s in the middle of a luxurious vegetation. After warming up with two "6a+". There were two routes that caught my eyes they seemed very technical and powerful with boulderly moves. We quickly jump on the first one that was a "7a+" this route seemed very interesting and you can see from the ground all the hand holds. But it was not as easy as expected... and it took me about five attempted to send it !
We decided to continue crushing another hard one there. So we roam up on "7b" with the same start but a bit more intense with reachy moves but anyways we both sent it on our fourth attempted.
We felt in super good condition and want to finish the day with another "7a+" but we failed!
DAY 3
Third day, after climbed a lot in the last two day, I felt my muscles are a bit sore but i still willing to push my limits! We decided to go back to Pha Deang wall and climb some easy ones to wrapped all of them.
Even thought we jumped on what i think was a "7c", I'm not sure about the grade! This route kinda different style of climbing for me with crag climbing moves. We were trying about four or five times each, but the route was very difficult and we could not pass the crux. This is maybe our next project to keep in mind. After a full day of climbing we were super exhausted and even a "6a" seems very tricky ! I was also very impressed by my lovely girlfriend who worked hard and tried to overcome her own limit as well good job babe!
DAY 4
We still had one more day for climbing trip with my brother and we both felt we wanted to send another project here. So we went to check the wall located near Pha Deang village. We had trouble to find the path leading to the wall and had to accept that this place has been drawn by the jungle during the rainy season and that it was impossible to reach the wall. But we didn't give up on climbing and still want to make the day happens. So we went back to finished "7a+" that we already tried on the second day.
As we had all beta on this one, we both sent it after two days and four attempted each. I think that this climbing trip gave me the opportunity of working different moves and overcome my limits!
BIG THANK to Pi Sorn that dedicated his time developing this area. And i bet in the future this area is going to be one of the most beautiful climbing spot of Northern Thailand. And thanks to my lovely cousin for the place to stayed. Last thing i would like to share is my tip about sterling ropes " CLICK HERE" to know more.
After climbing....
After the rock climbing trip my girlfriend and i went to Doi Angkhang for the last two days of holidays. I have been there 2 years ago for my boss wedding. This place is amazing you can see the Burmese border from there and the nature here is so different with lots of pines, ferns and apple trees . There is also a royal project where they grown many kinds of fruits and vegetables useless to tell you that it worth having a delicious and healthy dinner at their restaurant ! We took some photos and would like to share them with all of you.
Burmese Border
Our Bodyguard Cheers!
RSt✩r
