Petit Grepon

June 30, 2013

It have been half way through with my Guide advance training trip in the USA, my life here has been awesome everyday. I tried to climb, hang out with locals and enjoy my time here as much as I could and I feel very grateful about this opportunity. I'm not going to lie about how much I miss home, family,friends, food... But on the other hand I know that I'm learning to growth in my personal experience, development and I try to contribute to other people when I can.

Recently, I went out for  my first alpine climbing with CMS guide Norie Kizaki and her guest is Bruce Hodson at the Rocky Mountain National Park.  We started out our journey by checking all the gears, food, and carefully planed our trip with a safety strategy in  mind. We left from the parking lot about noon and hiked about 5 miles to the base camp it took us about 3 and half hours to get there! It was my longest approach to the climb "Click it here" to see my magic legs! During this trip I got to see the snow for the first time in my life, there wasn't much snow left up there but even thought now I can say I have seen the snow!!!

 

The weather was super windy and truly cold for me when we got there. I was super exhausted from the hike and the high altitude but I felt super happy to be there!  This place got definitely something like an aura and I believe anyone who comes here can sense this is a powerful place. We tried to eat lots of food and get to bed early to be ready for climbing the next day.

The Petit Grepon is one of the best 50 classic alpine climbs in North America " here are more info about the route" and I was so happy to get the chance to climb it. Big thanks to Norie Kizaki for leading the pitch for me and Bruce Hodson. It was an amazing experience and another learning step for me to become a better mountain guide! 

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Little by Little and I Go------> part 2

June 14, 2013

It feels great every time I go climbing outside. I've been working and climbing outdoor more often these days with CMS guides. Last week the Salewa and Wild country Rep group joined us for out west climbing. we went climbing at Castle Rock in Boulder Canyon. It was such a great day and I really enjoyed working with all the folks out there.

The weather is getting hot in Boulder and it feels like summer time is coming soon! Yes Yes!!! I've been climbing a lot of Multi-Pitch and to be honest climbing here is so beautiful! Lately we have been climbing in the canyon It was very noisy from the river and the wind and it made me realize that we have to always make plans ahead and be sure to have a good communication while we climb to avoid dangerous mistakes. 
 

I also spent my time working at BRC, setting routes to improve my technical skills and trains endurance. It's actually a very good combination for me : training to get strong and built up the mind set confidence, and crushed on the rock every time I have the opportunity to go outside.

I just received my new shoes from Evolv " Click it here" for more information Big thanks for the suppor!

Thanks for Reading!

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Little by Little and I Go...

June 04, 2013

Those days I feel so motivated  and so lucky that climbing had brought me such a huge gift into my life and it's not enough for me to say how much I love this LIFE. Last week I started my first week with Colorado Mountain School   after a long weekend due to Memorial Day. I didn't do the 10K race on that weekend but I have been watching  five thousands people running in this race. I never saw it before and it was so impressive to see people from different generation spend their time together and ENJOY the race. 

 

 

 

Next day... We had the "kick out CMS guide meeting" before summer season starts. For this occasion all the guides meet each others and update new information about climbing, gears,tips, and share professionally and personally. The same day in the afternoon we all went  to Eldorado canyon for some training and I've learned some new skills like "caterpillar method, short roping and stuff" and then in the evening we had BBQ together. It was a great start for me to meet with all those professional guides.

 

  

I have been able to checked out the Flatiron wall with Japhy, Pi Dao and Pi Jeff . We couldn't climb any other Flatirons because of Falcon's nesting season.  We hiked about 45 minute to the Dinosaur wall on 3rd Flatiron. We warmed up on " Knot Carry and Touch Monkey 11b onsighted and then Japhy told me there is three stars route that I should try and totally caught my eyes after I looked at it. I was so psyched to get on this route" The Shaft 12b"  and onsight it but I got super pumpy and I fell on the last crux which is 2 meters before clipping the chain oh NO NO! But I sent it on my second attempt, I was so thrilled and I felt my strength coming back so for sure I am very psyched to crush more !

 

  

  

 

I have been training a lot at BRC lately to built up my endurance. I also went climbing with one of the CMS's guide Russell Hunter, we went climbing out at Eldorado West Ridge, it's also a long approach to the crag with 30 minutes hike . I can say this places is my favorite  so far the landscape is so beautiful  with all the pine trees and hard sandstone rock. We climbed only half day but it was fun day for me to get on trad climbing.  I have climbed "Mesca-Line 5.7+ Lead, Pony Express 5.9 first pitch, White Lightning 10a onsighted" and "Sister Morphine 5.9-, Positively Fouth Street 5.9 on Top Rope" 

 

Last weekend, I went to Vedauwoo Wyoming with Andrew Councell IFMGA CMS 's guide, I was shadowing guide and client on this trip with Patrick Hardy. This place is very unique, all the rock lies on top of each other and it's looks like the rock is not very strong, but the impression I got was wrong and it's indeed very strong rock! Vedauwoo is very well know for  climbers who like crack climbing style. There are lots of hands and foot jamming plus the rock it unbelievably sharp, it's totally new climbing game for me ! I started warming up top roping at Friday the 13th Conner on"Thunderbolt 5.9, Middle Parallel Space 5.9, Hamburger Crack 5.7. And also Flare Thee Well 11 a super hard fingers crack route, and for me the opportunity to practice hand jam. Then I tried to romp my self first lead on "War Zone 5.9" . I also jumped on"Outrider 10a" this route is face climbing style and much harder than any other same difficulty that I've ever climbed in my life due to super shape tiny hands and foot holes. Before we finish the day  I also tried the route" Mother#1 5.7+, I onsighted this  very classic and chimney style route and with crag so I brought lots of number 5-6 cams wiht me. I almost fell on this route because I got so worn out from the full day of climbing.  I am so glad to came here and felt like a beginner again, It's remind me that it's always feel  good every time you made it to the top  whether you are pro or novice crack climber. At night we stayed camping at the crag and the weather was super chilly like probably below 10 celsius but BIG THANKS to Patagonia layers that kept me warm  !

Second day, I was super tired from the first day, I obviously loose my fingers' skin  but still I had a very great time ! We walked about 45 minutes to get to the Massif Valley and I  climbed " Quite 5.9+ onsighted" and top roping on" Bill Steal 5.6" this route is  perfect for beginners to practice hand jams and stuff. I finish the end of the day with 5.7+. It was a bad ass weekend climbing and camping trip for me, and for sure there will be more opportunities to climb other areas so I can't wait to get back on the next climb soon!
 

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