วันอังคารที่ 26 ตุลาคม พ.ศ. 2553

Ready for Broadway

October 26 , 2010
..There are so many different rocks to climb in the world. One kind of is Trad Climbing, where the leader uses mostly removable gear "and the occasional bolt placed on lead" to protect against falls. As with all partnered climbing, involving belays, the climbing team (a leader and follower, or multiple followers) begins at the bottom of a climb and ascends to the top, the leader placing protective devices in the rock as he/she climbs. Once the leader is finished climbing, they establish a belay. The follower then "follows" the route and removes all of the gear placed by the leader. It is important that the leader be proficient at placing Trad (or clean or natural) gear (cams, stoppers, hexes, tri-cams, etc.) because their safety depends upon the soundness of each individual gear placement. A second kind of climbing, sport climbing, is type of free climbing which involves the use of pre-placed permanent bolts for protection. This frees the leader from the need to carry and place traditional gear. The leader merely clips one side of a quick draw (two carabiners connected by a loop of webbing) into a bolt and the other into the rope. Sport Climbing, in essence, is focused more on the gymnastic aspects of climbing than the aesthetics or adventure. The third style is bouldering which may be described as climbing short, severe routes on boulders or small outcrops. While safety ropes from above are occasionally used, most boulderers feel that the most ethical form of protection is a bouldering mat or pad similar to those used by gymnasts. In addition, other climbers standing on the ground may "spot" the boulderer, to help safely guide their fall. "Click it here"

..After the weekend of competition in Bangkok, Add and myself didn't want to go back home yet. we were both so super STOKED to take our first climbing road trip. We've been talking about this for long time, and asked our good friend for the beta and we had to make it happen. We thought of so many places that we want to go, Lopburi, or Saraburi, eventually we decided to climb at Khao Yoi, which is closest to Bangkok. We didn't have too much time for this trip, but we wanted something that would inspire us. We took the bus down from Bangkok about half an hour to get to Khao Yoi, we almost missed it but we woke up just before the bus passed the crag.

"Khao Yoi"

"STOKED to get on the rock"

@Beta

"with my Mad Rock shoes"
..The first time we saw the crag, it caught my eye, huge limestone rocks and I was super psyched to kick the rock’s ass! We were finding the places where we can put our gear down and get ourselves ready to CRANK!. After we got a room, we hurried out straight to the crag. We didn't want to waste time and we got up on first route and started our warm-up, we both had a clean ascent "a climb without a fall" Magic Coner 5.11c on sight, Simon Mark 11a flash, No Name 10d on sight, Jessica 10a flash, Hour D'oeuvre 5.10 on sight, Main Course 10b on sight, Fly By Night 10a flash, Remember King 11b flash, Count Down 2000 11d flash, and Rain Dance we first thought 12a but we were wrong actually 11c red pointed. There were some more route that we couldn't made it because there was a beehive on the route, it was kind of sad but we gotta come back next time. But there was one route that really caught my eye it was called "Tomahawk 12c", i was working on this route for about an hour, it was such long route, technical, and powerful, I fell on the last crux and I couldn't make it to the top. I was a bit sad, and wished that we would have had more time for climbing, because this trip was to short plus we were both so tired from the competition and we needed to rest at least one day but we couldn't make it. But i won't say that I didn't have very great time climbing there. We had lots of fun traveling and being out on the rock, and i think we both ready to for more climbing adventures!

"Local Cows"
..Petburi or Khao Yoi, is south of Bangkok. It was a beautiful place and it is kind of like countryside, because most of people there has a lot of Cows in their flied, i loved to being there, not to many cars, the temperature was nice and the air was clean, the people were so kind.... Climb On. I’m so thankful it didn’t rain a lot when we were climbing there, when we travel it was so easily to get some crispy food, and I’m thankful that i haven't gotten sick. I'd like to say thank for our communities for every supported, encouraging, and all people that i know for such an amazing support for climbing, P'Taw for gave us borrow the rope and Jens for such beautiful camera.

"Our lovely body guards"

..One more thing, our CMRCA family lost such lovely dog "Black" who died when she got hit by a speeding car in front of the shop on Monday October 11, 2010. She has been part of our community for seven years, since she was born. This is a sad time for our family I hope all best to the crew and we will never forget our dear doggy "Black" we miss you Blacky " You are always in our heart "

Continues inspire
Cheers!
RStr

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