วันอังคารที่ 4 มิถุนายน พ.ศ. 2556

Little by Little and I Go...

June 04, 2013
Those days I feel so motivated  and so lucky that climbing had brought me such a huge gift into my life and it's not enough for me to say how much I love this LIFE. Last week I started my first week with Colorado Mountain School   after a long weekend due to Memorial Day. I didn't do the 10K race on that weekend but I have been watching  five thousands people running in this race. I never saw it before and it was so impressive to see people from different generation spend their time together and ENJOY the race. 
 

Next day... We had the "kick out CMS guide meeting" before summer season starts. For this occasion all the guides meet each others and update new information about climbing, gears,tips, and share professionally and personally. The same day in the afternoon we all went  to Eldorado canyon for some training and I've learned some new skills like "caterpillar method, short roping and stuff" and then in the evening we had BBQ together. It was a great start for me to meet with all those professional guides.


  

I have been able to checked out the Flatiron wall with Japhy, Pi Dao and Pi Jeff . We couldn't climb any other Flatirons because of Falcon's nesting season.  We hiked about 45 minute to the Dinosaur wall on 3rd Flatiron. We warmed up on " Knot Carry and Touch Monkey 11b onsighted and then Japhy told me there is three stars route that I should try and totally caught my eyes after I looked at it. I was so psyched to get on this route" The Shaft 12b"  and onsight it but I got super pumpy and I fell on the last crux which is 2 meters before clipping the chain oh NO NO! But I sent it on my second attempt, I was so thrilled and I felt my strength coming back so for sure I am very psyched to crush more !
 
  

  


I have been training a lot at BRC lately to built up my endurance. I also went climbing with one of the CMS's guide Russell Hunter, we went climbing out at Eldorado West Ridge, it's also a long approach to the crag with 30 minutes hike . I can say this places is my favorite  so far the landscape is so beautiful  with all the pine trees and hard sandstone rock. We climbed only half day but it was fun day for me to get on trad climbing.  I have climbed "Mesca-Line 5.7+ Lead, Pony Express 5.9 first pitch, White Lightning 10a onsighted" and "Sister Morphine 5.9-, Positively Fouth Street 5.9 on Top Rope" 







Last weekend, I went to Vedauwoo Wyoming with Andrew Councell IFMGA CMS 's guide, I was shadowing guide and client on this trip with Patrick Hardy. This place is very unique, all the rock lies on top of each other and it's looks like the rock is not very strong, but the impression I got was wrong and it's indeed very strong rock! Vedauwoo is very well know for  climbers who like crack climbing style. There are lots of hands and foot jamming plus the rock it unbelievably sharp, it's totally new climbing game for me ! I started warming up top roping at Friday the 13th Conner on"Thunderbolt 5.9, Middle Parallel Space 5.9, Hamburger Crack 5.7. And also Flare Thee Well 11 a super hard fingers crack route, and for me the opportunity to practice hand jam. Then I tried to romp my self first lead on "War Zone 5.9" . I also jumped on"Outrider 10a" this route is face climbing style and much harder than any other same difficulty that I've ever climbed in my life due to super shape tiny hands and foot holes. Before we finish the day  I also tried the route" Mother#1 5.7+, I onsighted this  very classic and chimney style route and with crag so I brought lots of number 5-6 cams wiht me. I almost fell on this route because I got so worn out from the full day of climbing.  I am so glad to came here and felt like a beginner again, It's remind me that it's always feel  good every time you made it to the top  whether you are pro or novice crack climber. At night we stayed camping at the crag and the weather was super chilly like probably below 10 celsius but BIG THANKS to Patagonia layers that kept me warm  !












Second day, I was super tired from the first day, I obviously loose my fingers' skin  but still I had a very great time ! We walked about 45 minutes to get to the Massif Valley and I  climbed " Quite 5.9+ onsighted" and top roping on" Bill Steal 5.6" this route is  perfect for beginners to practice hand jams and stuff. I finish the end of the day with 5.7+. It was a bad ass weekend climbing and camping trip for me, and for sure there will be more opportunities to climb other areas so I can't wait to get back on the next climb soon!
 












Psyched for more...

ไม่มีความคิดเห็น:

แสดงความคิดเห็น